![]() ![]() ![]() You knew pretty quickly if things weren't right if both jamb legs weren't sitting on the floor or if the door closed by itself without benefit of closer.In the past several years I've been supervising commercial jobs with most of the jambs being steel with abutting masonry. The margin around the door and the trims relationship to adjacent surfaces were the governing factors. I've hung more inteior doors in my life(prehung) without plumb bob or level-not saying that's the way to do it but it was the reality of tract work and high production.I don't ever recall having a call back. it had better be right or the door-dude is in trouble after the Framer is long gone. With wood, cutting down is always an option. ![]() That last item was a new one to the framer: he said all he's ever done is level the header to which I showed him "if the jambs are both plumb, x-sited and in-line, then square the header to the done-deal-jambs and 'yer done & good". Cross-sighted with strings, used the Super's levels to double-check and even used the 3' & 4' Glaziers Squares (Lufkin makes the best!)I borrowed to him to 2x check the header. Our recent completed hospital in Mesa AZ was a near-perfect HM Frame install from the Framer. Plumb with difficult jambs and offset pivots, then double check with both the 'extend'a levels and our Stabila's. Having said that I use both when hanging our own woodframes. The cost (just over $200) for the set creates goodwill for me, and provides the Super with an easy method of double-checking the Stud Framer. Hence, there’s no excuse not to make/buy and use a plumb bob if you’re in any way concerned with the quality and accuracy of whatever construction or decorating work you tackle.įeel free to drop us a comment below if you have any other questions or queries.When we're starting a new commercial job, I always make a gift to the Super of a brand new Jamber set from Stabila. In all honesty, not only are they relatively cheap to buy, they’re simple to use and a doddle to set up, too. If you’ve decided against making a homemade plumb bob, hopefully, we’ve done enough to convince you of the merits of buying one instead to keep in your toolbox. We hope that you found this article useful. Compare the figures, adjusting the stud wall and repeating the measurements until the top and bottom figures match, at which point you’ll know that the stud wall is plumb.Repeat the process at the bottom of the plumb line. Measure the distance between the plumb line and stud wall from a point close to the top of the plumb line. Wait for the plumb wait to stop swinging. ![]() Next, tie the end of the plumb bob to the nail or the screw, ensuring that the plumb weight sits clear of the floor by a couple of inches.For example, to check that a new stud wall is vertically aligned, hammer the nail or insert the screw into a ceiling joist (ideally about an inch away from where the top of the stud wall will sit once installed). Either hammer in a nail or insert a screw into a horizontal surface that sits perpendicular to the vertical surface of which you want to check the vertical alignment.When Checking Vertical Alignment in Walls & Doors Etc. The location you’ve marked corresponds to where the center of the downlight will need to sit when fitted. Once verified, mark the position on the ceiling at the top of the plumb line. Ensure the plumb bob still hangs over the center point even after it stops swinging.Next, carefully using a ladder, take the end of the plumb line and hang the weight until it rests directly over the mark at the center of the worktop.Let’s assume that you want to fit a downlight that is centered over a kitchen island, so in this case, you’d mark a point at the very center of the island. The first step is to mark a position on the floor or worktop.When Transferring Points From Floor/Worktop to Worktop There are a couple of different ways to use a plumb bob: Finally, wait for the string and screwdriver to stop swinging before using them to test for plumb. ![]()
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